Volnay Les Champans, Domaine Marquis d'Angerville 2023

Even in this more charming vintage, the 2023 Volnay 1er Cru Champans is the most structured wine in the range, opening up to reveal notes of cherries, berries and peonies, followed by a medium to full-bodied, deep and broad-shouldered palate built around sweet, powdery tannins. It will reward a bit of patience.

The 2023 Champans is one of my favourite wines from this cellar, as it is in many vintages. It offers lush, forward black- and blue-fruit aromas, with hints of flowers, earth and leather. The supple yet supportive tannins and a plump mouthfeel (from the dense extract) lead to a lingering finish. The grapes come from d'Angerville's superb holdings here of almost 4ha. This seductive wine should open in three to five years, and will easily stay at the top of its form for 20 years or more. (Drink between 2030-2050)