Sauvignon Blanc Best End, Churton 2023

Don't expect a typical New Zealand Sauvignon from this small production, top end wine. Bright lemon in colour, the nose here exudes notes of greengage, mirabelle, lemon curd and lemongrass. The palate has a rich texture, clearly worked in barrel to add weight and density. The fruit ranges from the same lemongrass top note through to white peach and even a hint of something more tropical. Despite all this, the acid tang persists throughout, framing the fruit and cutting through that intense, oily texture. This is very, very impressive, sharing something with the top wines from the Loire and even broaching the fuller character of Sauvignon-led white Bordeaux. The finish is minutes long, lingering with lipsmacking, moreish fruit and something more saline. 3,333 bottles made.

Served blind and had such a combination of marked acidity and mid-palate fruit that I thought it might have been a Chenin Blanc. But I also wrote 'gooseberry' in my tasting notes which should have given the game away. Very, very un-Marlborough-like with its bone-dry finish and real interest and structure. Still youthful.

Our Best End Sauvignon Blanc 2023 has lifted aromatics of lemon zest, fennel flowers and lemon balm underlined by a savoury ground stone character. On the palate, the wine is dry and linear with creamy fresh stone fruit, white nectarine and lemon oil. A fine line of silvery acidity runs through the long finish.