Syrah Stars In The Dark, Minimalist Wines 2023

Smells spicy, medicinal, wintergreen and balm. Taffeta texture to those tannins with a splice of cumin and iodine, coffee and chicory. Rose hips. The fruit is like a soft kiss, almost breathy, barely there. Sam Lambson is like the John Sargent of Syrah winemakers, somehow capturing the intricacy and intimacy and power of colour and light in the most transparent, light-touch way possible. Despite the tight, tight finish, the wine seems to float. I wouldn't rush to drink this now, although it would be difficult to resist. (TC) 2026 – 2035

This is an incredibly engaging wine, one that is for hardcore lovers of whole-bunch, cool-climate Syrah. I'm still not sure if it's for everyone, but after a few hours open even those of the team who were a bit sceptical loved this wine. Mid ruby colour. Hyper floral to start, with notes of iris, nori, rosemary and sage. With air, you see beautifully detailed red cherry, raspberry and blueberry fruit. Everything feels so ethereal and yet tightly coiled. The palate is chalky, edgy with acids but immensely pleasurable and sensual with glossy tannins, fine notes of fennel and dashi, pressed flowers and more of that fruit from the nose. Savoury yet sweet, this is saline and peppery, perfectly seasoned to make it very moreish indeed. The fruit grows in the glass, making for real promise in the future. Either decant this now or give it a few years in bottle before approaching. It will come alive with food, and will drink well for up to two decades.