This shouldn’t work, because it lies in the no-man’s land between dry and off-dry, but it handles this spectacularly well. When you pick up a glass of this extraordinary Alsace riesling you descend into an expansive landscape of yellow fruit, dried herbs and spices. Giant concentration, but every bit as graceful. Then comes the mind-blowing minerality in the finish, which doesn’t want to stop. Decades of aging potential. Drink from release.
