| Region | |
|---|---|
| Subregion | Argentina |
| Colour | Red |
| Type | Still |
This has layers waiting to unfold beneath its austere exterior. Aromas of fresh blueberries with a hint of sage, and after time in the glass clementine peel begins to emerge. The palate is tight and incisive, driven by a stony texture, with discreet fruit that gently reveals itself behind a saline, savory core. Intense and absorbing—a profound, quietly compelling wine. Sourced from a parcel at 1,100 meters altitude. Fermented and aged in concrete without epoxy. Great now, but it will gain complexity with some bottle age. Better in 2027.
Sitting at the apex of the Zuccardi range alongside its counterpart from the Supercal parcel, the 2022 Finca Piedra Infinita Gravascal offers a more dramatic and engaging rendition of the portfolio's core vineyard. Whereas the Supercal is an ethereal, fine-boned expression of the site, the Gravascal takes the exact opposite tack, with a darkly floral, enveloping, mouth-filling profile that retains the weightlessness that defines Paraje Altamira while delivering sophistication and gravitas second to none. As I find it consistent with the most memorable and complex wines, it exhibits a paradoxical nature from front to back, equal parts simple and sophisticated, complex yet straight to the point. Despite the grandiosity of the palate and the relentlessness of the finish, the wine exhibits a sense of control and containment that feels naturally attained rather than the product of winemaking. As with the entire range of 2022s from Zuccardi, this is certainly best left in bottle until closer to its 10th birthday, and I imagine I will see a full two decades of evolution.
As exceptional as the Supercal, the 2022 Malbec Finca Piedra Infinita Gravascal is from stony soils with no topsoil, the Malbec fermented and aged in concrete only. All about the rockiness of the 3,609-foot site, it’s herbal in tomato leaf and tobacco, with an energetic midpalate of tension and grip. There’s so much going on here, a feral quality to the iron and flint with just a touch of juicy acidity and medium-bodied fruit. The aromas of wild jumilla jump from the glass, this is so, so good, spicy and structured to keep going another 20 years. Hold and drink 2028-2042.
