“The Gaja 2022 Barolo Sperss shows greater dimension and depth than the Conteisa, with a broader, more robust frame and a darker fruit profile to match. Black cherry and cassis are layered with earthy spice and mineral notes, while the palate is firmly structured with pronounced, chalky tannins that give the wine impressive drive and aging potential. Despite the concentration of the 2022 vintage, the wine remains beautifully balanced, with freshness carrying the fruit through the finish. As I taste the recent trio of hot vintages—2020, 2022 and now 2023—I find myself wondering whether wines of this caliber will ultimately be enjoyed at a younger age than previous generations. The 2023s are already remarkably expressive, whereas the 2022 Sperss feels destined for a longer evolution in bottle.”
“Moving to Serralunga, the 2022 Barolo Sperss takes on another level of depth and complexity with richer tannins and structure reflecting the terroir. Aromas of cherry cordial, dark stones, and subtle spice lead into a palate that combines the power of Serralunga with remarkable finesse. Notes of apricot and mandarin lift the wine, giving it precision and freshness despite its depth. 18,000 bottles were produced. Drink 2027-2060.”
