Volnay Clos des Ducs, Domaine Marquis d'Angerville 2002

As it almost always is in its youth, this is a linear wine but the '02 ratchets up the minerality and that sense of almost exacting precision and detail. The tannins are not quite as firm as those of the Taillepieds yet here there is another level of elegance and purity with absolutely perfect harmony and a subtle, understated, almost Zen-like reserve. In short, this is a classic Clos des Ducs that will rival such memorable vintages as 1978, 1985, 1991 1993, 1996 and 1999. If you love Clos des Ducs, don't miss the '02.