CDP Cuvée Mourre des Perdrix, Domaine de la Charbonnière 2005

The 2005 Chateauneuf du Pape Mourre des Perdrix's dark ruby/purple-tinged color is followed by notes of black raspberries, black currants, cherries, pepper, and incense, medium to full body, and a long, concentrated, layered finish.

This is one of the most well-run estates in Chateauneuf du Pape thanks to the meticulous and passionate efforts of proprietor Michel Maret (readers should not overlook is Vacqueyras, one of the finest wines of that appellation). While the 2006s are not as powerful or rich as the 2005s, it is an excellent vintage for Charbonniere. In fact, I was somewhat surprised that there was less significant difference between the cuvees than usual.

I found the 2005 Chateauneuf du Pape Mourre des Perdrix a touch lean and firm this time last year, but it showed nothing but beautiful fruit and texture on this occasion. Offering terrific notes of black raspberries, black cherries, ground herbs and earth, with considerable polish, elegance and length, it’s a clear success in the vintage and has loads of charm. Drink it over the coming 4-6 years.