CDP Vieux Télégraphe, Vignobles Brunier Domaine du Vieux Telegraphe 2011

Tightly coiled for now, with pepper, garrigue and briar notes wrapped around a core of steeped cherry, damson plum and blackberry fruit. Cedar and sandalwood accents line the finish, revealing a hint of blood orange. This needs some cellaring to unwind fully. Best from 2016 through 2026.

Forward and up-front, especially by this cuvee-s standards, the 2011 Vieux Telegraphe Chateauneuf (65% Grenache from 70-year-old vines, 15% Syrah, 15% Mourvedre and the balance other permitted varieties) exhibits perfumed aromas of herbs de Provence, seaweed wrapper, garrigue and olive to go with plenty of sweet kirsch and berry fruit. Medium-bodied, fresh and elegant, with fine tannin, it can be consumed now (with a decant) or cellared for a decade. Drink now-2025.

15% Mourvèdre, 15% Syrah, 5% Cinsault/Clairette/Counoise plus Grenache Noir. Muddy colour. Light to mid ruby. Round, jewelly sweet. Very forward! Very different from the norm – much more transparent and fresh. By no means unpleasant but it will surely mature relatively early. A bit wild and woolly with rose-petal jam flavours. Plus a bit of fine tannin on the end. Throat warming.

With respect to the Vieux Telegraphe, the 2011 Chateauneuf du Pape is a blend of 65% Grenache, 15% Syrah, 15% Mourvedre and 5% Cinsault and other grapes, from vines that average 65-years of age. It is aged in both concrete tanks and old wood foudres. This beautifully made 2011 offers immediate drinkability, which is unusual for Vieux Telegraphe. A deep ruby color is accompanied by notes of pepper, roasted meats, Provencal herbs, black cherries, black currants, tapenade, seaweed and salty sea breezes. This complex, delicious, full throttle Chateauneuf du Pape should drink well for 10-15 years.