Cantenac Brown 2013

The 2013 Cantenac Brown has a lot of damp undergrowth and pencil lead scents on the nose. There is not as much fruit as the Desmirail 2013 tasted alongside. The palate is green on the entry, something that cannot be avoided, and the finish feels dry and bitter. This was a very vexing showing from an estate that has improved in recent years and appears less impressive in bottle than out of barrel. I consider Cantenac Brown to be a Margaux property in the ascendant, so this is perhaps just a misstep in a difficult vintage.

The Cantenac Brown is a blend of 68% Cabernet Sauvignon and 32% Merlot picked 1 and 10 October. It has a slightly high-toned bouquet with macerated dark cherries and a touch of fresh prune, although it needs more finesse and Margaux-typicity. The palate is quite juicy on the entry with gently grippy tannins. There is not much depth to this Cantenac Brown, although it has sufficient red and black, spicy fruit on the finish to render this a commendable, early-drinking Margaux after bottling. Tasted April 2014.