Bonnes Mares, Domaine de la Vougeraie 2014

A strikingly complex if highly restrained nose brings together notes of admirably fresh red currant, plum, lavender, rose petal, earth and spice nuances that are also trimmed in just enough wood to notice. There is excellent volume to the big-bodied, intense and muscular yet seductively textured medium weight plus flavors, all wrapped in an overtly powerful and long finish. Plenty of patience will also be required.

The 2014 Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru, containing 80% whole cluster fruit this year, has a focused, delineated nose, perhaps missing the exuberance that this vineyard can bestow, but it unfurls nicely in the glass revealing touches of woodland and undergrowth (actually quite Musigny-like!). The palate is fresh on the entry with a fine line of acidity, great tension and focus here with a slightly tapered and yet long and tender finish. This is a sophisticated Bonnes Mares that is a little teasing out of barrel, but will grow up into a great, perhaps more 'serious' wine.

Medium deep red, with a flamboyant bouquet including raspberry, blackberry and some garrigue notes, along with the white pepper of whole bunches. Very attractive, just a medium bodied Bonnes Mares but beautifully balanced with a graceful sweet fruit finish.