Crozes Ermitage, Les Varonniers, Maison M. Chapoutier 2019

The 2019 Crozes-Ermitage Les Varonniers comes from site just to the west of Hermitage, and this cuvée is always a more Hermitage-like, structured wine. While I think the soils here (broken granite) are brilliant, the downside of this vineyard is that it lies in the shade most days and only gets afternoon sun. It produces a big, burly wine that needs bottle age, and top vintages can evolve for over two decades. The 2019 has pure cassis, graphite, and peppery aromatics as well as a rich, full-bodied, concentrated style on the palate. I love its tannins, the balance as well as the purity of fruit are spot on, and this is another beautiful Crozes Hermitage that would pass undetected in a lineup of top Hermitage. Give bottles 5-6 years and enjoy over the following two decades.

This must be the best Crozes-Hermitage I ever tasted! Deep, smoky, minty and spicy nose that expands and expands as it aerates, gaining ever more earthy complexity. Stunningly concentrated and focused palate with so much bitter chocolate and black cherry, but even more power. Giant finish that’s astonishingly refined for this appellation. From biodynamically grown grapes with Demeter certification. Drinkable now, but best from 2024.

Not yet bottled, the 2019 Crozes-Ermitage Les Varonniers comes from the Varogne lieu-dit located just to the west of Hermitage. This is a cooler, more shaded vineyard of pure granite soils, and I always find an Hermitage-like character in this wine. Lots of blackberry, cassis, crushed stone, leather, and violet notes emerge from the glass, and it's rich, full-bodied, and powerful on the palate, with lots of structure yet more than enough fruit. The quality of this cuvée has soared recently and the 2019 will be another gem readers will love.