Chevalier Montrachet, Bernard Moreau 2017

As it sometimes is, the wonderfully elegant nose is restrained to the point of being almost mute and it requires aggressive swirling to finally liberate the mostly floral, citrus and white-fleshed fruit scents. There is plenty of the hallmark minerality to the big, powerful and almost painfully intense broad-shouldered flavors that deliver superb length on the impeccably well-balanced, explosive and bone dry finish that also displays a hint of quinine character. Despite all of the size, weight and intensity, this is quite classy, indeed the word silky comes to mind.