Barolo Brea Vigna Cà Mia, Azienda Agriciola Brovia 2017

Mesmerizing aromas of violet, rose, perfumed berry and dried aromatic herb mingle together with a whiff of forest floor in this compelling wine. Full-bodied, elegant and delicious, the structured palate delivers ripe Morello cherry, cranberry, licorice and tobacco framed in youthfully assertive but refined tannins. It closes on a tangy mineral note. Drink 2027–2037.

Serralunga d'Alba. Monopole cru of the Brovia family. Youthful mid ruby. Minerally, concentrated cherry fruit nose with hints of black pepper. Fresh red-fruit palate with great depth, and yet elegant and with gorgeous, long coating tannins. Great length and tannic grip and sensationally balanced. 2022-2036

The 2017 Barolo Brea Vigna Ca' Mia sources its fruit from old vines planted in Serralunga d'Alba. This site is known for power and structure, although this hot-vintage expression treads with surprisingly light and delicate footprints. Instead of overt ripeness (like the kind we saw in the two Brovia wines from Castiglione Falletto), the Brea is salty and mineral driven. It shows subdued primary fruit framed by iron ore, rusty nail and dusty terracotta. The jury is out on the wine's aging potential, as a bit more fruit padding might have served well to carry it forward over the years. To my palate, this release has taken the biggest hit from the challenging vintage and is a bit dried out compared to past editions. 5,000 bottles were produced. 2024-2038