Dinner starts with a fresh, briny oyster and a glass of 2010 Dom Ruinart. It’s a beautiful pairing. I have always loved the 2010 for the way it straddles the worlds of Champagne and still wine. It is absolutely glorious on this night. In fact, I could have had it for the entire meal. A deep, luscious morel broth and Brittany scallops are other highlights among the amuse-bouches.
