Porseleinberg Syrah, Boekenhoutskloof 2020

Aromas of red cherries, rose petal, thyme, rosemary and overturned earth. Medium- to full-bodied with fine, juicy tannins that run the length of the wine. Spicy, herbal and fruitful with a lovely approachability to its complex layering. Succulent and persistent. While this will open up with a bit more age, its already showing very well now. Drink or hold.

"We pick the vintage," says Callie Louw, whose 2020 Porseleinberg is the second lightest in alcohol he's ever made at 13.6%. Fermented with 100% whole bunches using the submerged cap technique that transformed the wine in 2018, this is another scented, seamless stunner from Callie Louw. Aged in large foudres and 5% concrete eggs, it's a spicy, sappy, hauntingly elegant Syrah from a brutal site, with kelp, rose petal and fynbos aromas, juicy bramble and red berry fruit, fine tannins and a wonderful sense of energy. 2024-32

Mid-ruby in colour, the latest rendition of Porseleinberg is tight as always on the nose at this early stage. With air, layers of green peppercorn, blueberry, red hedgerow fruit, rosemary and white pepper all come through. There is a clarity and lift that makes it almost Pinor Noir-like in its youthfulness. The palate is silky and refined, with the tannins softer and more integrated than in the last two vintages - this will drink well earlier than previous iterations. Delicate and airy in fruit, it is fine-boned, with chiselled cherry and white pepper fruit in the middle. Dried herbs and violets mingle with persistent, chalky tannins towards the finish. Another excellent Porseleinberg from a vineyard quickly establishing itself as one of the very best for Syrah, both in South Africa and beyond.