Kumeu River needs little introduction to Farr Vintners customers. We have written about the incredible wines in this range, their ageing capacity and their ability to compete on a global stage despite their modest price points. The Chardonnays produced from vineyards touching the growing city of Auckland on New Zealand's North Island are wines I drink at home on a weekly basis. My favourite has always been Hunting Hill. Since its first vintage in 2006, the wine has had a unique profile, with a lime blossom character, shy youthful tension, piercing acidity and textural depth. It ages incredibly well - the 2007 is one of my desert island wines and still drinks well to this day. The vineyard was first planted in the early 1980s and not all to Chardonnay - there were parcels of Cabernet Franc, Sauvignon Blanc and Cabernet Sauvignon in the mix. That quickly changed and Chardonnay became the lead variety, but the Mendoza clone's issues became too much and the vineyard was replanted in 2001. From here, the potential of this 3.7ha site became clear. At only five years old the fruit went to a small commercial production of a single vineyard wine - and the rest, as they say, is history.
Last month Paul Brajkovich came to town to host a 20 vintage vertical of this special wine at the Farr Vintners office with assembled trade and journalists. Normally we taste this wine as part of their range, with my takeaway largely that it is my favourite, so to run a deep dive and focus on vintage variation, and threads through the wine's entire history, was both unique and very informative. Winemaking is unobtrusive here and changes little, the grapes are whole-bunch pressed, the juice settled overnight and wild yeast fermentation takes place in barrel (about 25% new) ahead of 10-11 months élevage where malolactic takes place in full, before four months on fine lees in tank ahead of bottling. The only vintages that vary from this recipe are 2010 and 2023, both cold years where the new oak was ditched to preserve the fruit. This consistency allows you to get deep into each wine, appreciating the subtle differences year on year, the changes as the vines mature, and the underlying profile of the vineyard that runs through the two decades.
The trademarks through the years are as expected: the lime and citrus core, the steely rush of acidity, the grippy, textural depth and the overwhelming sense of freshness despite the flesh building with age. It struck me that - with thanks to the screwcap - we only had to open one bottle of each wine and didn't even have to check them before serving. In a world where many of Chardonnay's most famous wines are still subject to bottle variation and fault, this reliable consistency should not go unnoticed. It also struck me that even from such young vines, the wines of the late 2000s were brilliant. The 2007 delivered as I expected, but both the 2006 and 2008 were better than I remember and all still showed the vintage character in spades, over-delivering the on the back label message that "this wine will improve with bottle age for 4-6 years". It was clear to me that as the vines have matured, both the textural grip and the depth of fruit have grown. The 2024 and 2025 have just a little more stuffing, a little less reduction, and yet the same acid frame and lemon-lime character that I crave from this site.
Tasting notes for this brilliant vertical are below. The vintage character was more pronounced than I had anticipated in this tasting, but not in terms of weak and strong years. This marginal climate (it rarely reaches 30 degrees celsius here) produces characterful vintages that translate their individuality, aided by the hands-off consistency of the winemaking. 2006-2008 is remarkable as a first trio of vintages as I mentioned above - 2007 edges it for me but I expected it to stand out more. 2014 is the mid-maturity vintage I love, and my wine of the tasting - it is still tightly coiled and remarkably youthful, but has just eased and is showing its best; I absolutely loved it. The room picked 2020 as the top wine of the tasting and it's hard to disagree. Still nascent but with a little showy fruit to bolster waves of acidity, it has a completeness to the palate and an unerring finish. It is a special wine that will continue to improve in bottle. 2024 and 2025 might be the most special pair of vintages - different but of the highest quality. The 2024 is more concentrated and more introverted, the 2025 so pure, so perfectly balanced and beautifully put together; this is the 2009/2010 or 2019/2020 Bordeaux equivalent chez Kumeu. I also greatly enjoyed the most different vintages: 2010 and 2023 without the new oak had an almost Chablisienne quality, creamy and buttery and textural, higher in acid but also softer due, I expect, to the higher levels of lactic acid. 2018, too, had a honeyed, ginger and saffron quality that made it the most different wine, though delicious all the same. You cannot go wrong buying these wines, Kumeu have not made a dud in 20 years. I've had a quick look and, at time of writing, you can buy eight different vintages of Hunting Hill from us, and the most expensive will still cost less than £60 on the table including UK taxes - the brilliant 2024 and 2025 are less than £45. These are great wines and great value for money, the first thing I did after this tasting was top up my own collection, I suggest you do the same.
2025
A long, dry vintage with the hottest days 28 degrees celsius. Similar to 2006, the first vintage, in terms of weather. Pale lemon in the glass, there is an intense fragrance, with polished lemon and lime fruit on the nose. There's an almost lemongrass quality here, matching nicely with subtle, smoky wood. The palate is steely in acidity in keeping with the house style, led by cool fruit at the core and flecks of reductive gun smoke. High in pithy phenolic texture as well as acidity, this finishes brilliantly, opening up the fruit with a deft balance and high purity. A wine of real integrity, with carefully judged wood smoke just lingering on the finish. 96 points.
2024
Inclement weather at flowering led to low yields, which were 30% down on average. Pale in colour with a dense but introverted nose. You can sense the weight and intensity but there is a shyness to this for now. On the palate that power is revealed, unfurling with lime cordial, grippy and tensile acidity and an energetic rush of riper fruit. A driven, focused wine, this has real undertow but needs time. An exciting, dense, powerful and very long wine, this is at its most intense right at the finish. With time in the glass and a little more warmth it shows even more power. This will be one of the greats chez Kumeu. 96 points.
2023
A vintage that was chaotic for more than wine in Auckland, where the Kumeu river burst its banks and led to flooding in the winery and beyond in January. This was followed by cyclone Gabriel. The vines lost their leaves, slowing ripeness and giving a natural alcohol of 12.8% abv, about 1% lower than usual. Pale yellow with a creamy nose of lemon curd, waxy lemon peel and a little lanolin, this is more savoury in style. Buttery, creamy acids line the palate, which is high in acid but present smoother and softer than most wine in the line-up. Delicate and yielding, there is something akin to Chablis about this wine. Buttery, nutty flavours linger on the finish. Gentle and different. 93 points.
2022
A clean, abundant vintage. Pale lemon colour. Reductive and smoky with a little struck match, lime blossom and nutmeg on the nose. There's a really delicious interplay of fruit and spice on the palate, bringing fresh lime juice, lemon drizzle cake and gun smoke together. There's an almost tannic grip to this, tightening the screws and refreshing the sweeter spice notes. A wine of superb texture and intrigue, this is just getting going but another brilliant vintage for Hunting Hill. 95+ points.
2021
A frost affected year with low yields. Similar to 2024, there's a shy density to this wine which feels folded in on itself. The nose is hard to get into, needing some coaxing, but there are the telltale lemon-lime tones on show. The palate is zesty and fresh, full of vibrant, youthful citrus - this feels as though it is only a year or two old. Refreshing, appetising acids complement smoky wood and hints of white peach. A very fine, focused style. 95 points.
2020
A vintage Paul Brajkovich thinks could be their greatest ever, and the highest-rated wine at this tasting from the group. Very pale in the glass still with a huge intensity of fruit, this feels like a baby but shines with crystalline lemon and lime, a little white peach and a touch of honeysuckle over gentle struck match reduction. The palate is all drive and energy, with racy acidity matching intense citrus fruit. Chalky and structured with some toasty wood to add some rounded sweetness, this is on an upward trajectory. Growing in the glass, this is effortless and beautifully balanced. A very exciting wine that will hit its peak from 10 years old - though there is no need to wait. 97+ points.
2019
A twin to the 2020 that Paul thought would be their greatest year until they made the latter. Lemon in colour with a generous, open nose, this is incredibly seductive. Honeyed lemon fruit and generous wood spice meet with some riper orchard fruits. The palate is rounder than the 2020, with lashings of fruit giving the breadth while the piercing acidity keeps everything vibrant. This is silky, intense and complete. It might not be as intellectual as the 2020, but I absolutely love it. Long, layered and moreish, this is a brilliant wine at the peak of its powers. 97+ points.
2018
A wet, tricky vintage. Yellow in colour with a unique nose, there are hints of quince, saffron and ginger mixed in with the telltale lime character here. The palate is sweet and slick in fruit, offering citrus that falls more into orange and clementine. Layered, spicy and smooth, this is one to drink sooner than most, but it is still a delicious glass of wine. 93 points.
2017
A cooler vintage at Kumeu with lower yields. Pale colour with edgy, cool fruit on the nose, this falls into a citrus character that has something in common with the airy aromatics you taste in vins clairs in Champagne. The palate is brilliant - edgy, fine boned and chalky, this is for acid lovers but it is lip-smacking and delicious. Ethereal, pristine and high-toned, I love the refreshing drive and weightlessness to this wine. Excellent. 95+ points.
2016
A good vintage for Kumeu, similar in style to the 2022. Showing some reduction on the nose even at 10 years old, there is gun smoke and wood smoke but also intense, lightly honeyed lemon-lime to the aroma. The palate is juicy, with a supple fruit tone and complex, layered spice to this. There is real Hunting Hill identity to this wine, the lime note is persistent and matches the acid profile. This gets better and better in the glass, an excellent wine with a long finish, ideal for drinking now. 95+ points.
2015
A similar growing season to 2017 that was also affected by frost. A strong key lime pie note hits you on the nose here - both with the curd-like citrus and some pastry baking spices. The palate is polished and pure, still so youthful for a wine over 10 years old. Zesty and direct, this is on the fresher side like the 2017, cutting through the lightly honeyed fruit with ease. Growing in the glass and as it warms up, this is a complex wine at its apex. 95 points.
2014
A superstar vintage at Kumeu - Paul thinks 2020 might just have the edge over this, I'm still not sure. Youthful lemon in colour. The nose is laser-focused with pure lime that screams Hunting Hill. With that, there is the light honeyed lemon note of more than 10 years maturation, still a whiff of struck match reduction and integrated, gentle wood smoke. The palate is driven and incredibly youthful, the piercing lime character pushing everything forward before it fleshes out and expands, contained only by the vineyard's textbook acidity. Complex and composed, this is a wine with the x-factor, one that goes beyond technical brilliance and is just a delicious, giving glass of wine. Absolutely brilliant. This will be the new 2007. 98 points.
2013
Very low yields due to frost - only 300 cases produced versus the usual 1500. The concentration of fruit gave high sugar and high acidity. The low yields are a real shame, because this wine is showing incredibly well. Intense and expressive on the nose, there is some honey and almost a biscuit dough quality here, together with some lime curd. There's an almost Burgundian generosity and suppleness to the palate, an oiliness to the texture I would more commonly associate with Mate's Vineyard. As this pushes through with honey and sweet fruit, the acid cut comes late and tightens everything up, leaving a layered and lifted finish. A really good showing for this tiny crop. 96+ points.
2012
A tricky, wet year that has shown surprisingly well as it developed in bottle. Softer and more mature than most, this shows in preserved lemon, quince and waxy apples. The palate is as broad as it is long, gentle with some dried white fruits and lemon curd. A good showing for a wine now in its final plateau, it is an impressive showing in a tough year. 92 points.
2011
Similar to 2012, this was a difficult, wet harvest with severe selection in the winery. This is very clearly a twin to the 2011, soft and supple with an almost petrol-like note under dried lime and poached pear. The palate, too, has a gentleness that aligns it with the 2011. A comforting hug that I would drink over the coming 3-5 years, it has an easy, supple moreishness on the finish. 92 points.
2010
Frost affected - only 600 cases made and no new oak (like the 2023). Smoky with reduction still at over 15 years old, the fruit here is very cool and pithy, all citrus and apple. The palate is remarkably youthful, the bright acids giving a narrow focus to the cool fruit at the core. Pulpy, peachy fruit builds to the finish and becomes more noticeable as this opens up in the glass. There's a saline note to the finish that has you coming back for more. Very good. 94+ points.
2009
A good, abundant year with a similar style to 2022 and 2016. There's a juicy generosity to the nose here, showing orchard fruits in tandem with lime cordial. The palate is broad, with succulent acids and a more Burgundian texture, lightly oily and creamy with the citrus notes all lemon and lime curd. A generous, layered wine, this is delicious and at its apex now. 95 points.
2008
A very warm year (for Auckland) which was the last time the vineyard saw a run of days over 30 degrees celsius. Polished stone fruits line the nose, which still has the vineyard's lime blossom at the core. The palate is taking on a honeyed maturity, but has chewy, rich extract that gives it freshness as much as the bright acidity. A broad and full-bodied wine for Hunting hill, it as absolutely delicious. Chalky, spicy and long, this is a terrific showing. 96 points.
2007
Like 2015 and 2017, this was a cooler year, but it remains one of the wines Farr Vintners most coveted from Kumeu River. Still remarkably pale for a nearly 20 year old wine, the nose is complete and exciting, loaded with lemon-lime fruit that could not be from anywhere else. The density, youthfulness and harmony on the palate are as impressive as ever in this wine, it is amazing to have such vineyard character at this age. Chalky, structured and long, this is fine-boned but beautifully done, more vertical than broad and intense rather than heavy. Superb. 97 points.
2006
An easy vintage with ripe, clean fruit at harvest. More mature aromatically than the 2007, there is a honeysuckle character to the nose that complements dried lime and lemon curd fruit. The palate is pliant and generous, that touch of honey adding flesh to the citrus character than lingers at 20 years old. Now mature but still full of life, there is a slight oiliness and a note of nettle tea adding complexity in texture and flavour on the finish. It's hard to believe this was the first vintage of this wine, made from vines that were only 5 years old. Excellent. 95+ points.
Further coverage of this tasting can be read at jancisrobinson.com (subscription required and recommended) and wineanorak.com
Our current listings of Hunting Hill are below.
