There is no more exciting wine-producing country in the world right now than South Africa. There is a perfect combination of old vineyards, young winemakers, a dazzling array of styles (to quote Neal Martin) and a pioneering spirit in the region and – this is the really good bit – the wines are affordable. Moreover, we also have two great vintages on the spin in 2024 and 2025.
Original pioneers of the revolution that is now at full strength are Chris and Andrea Mullineux, who established their eponymous winery in 2007. They are South Africa’s most accomplished winemaking couple, and a much-awarded one at that. They were also the first producers in the country to convince Neal Martin of the quality coming out of the Cape in the mid-2000s (his current report on the region’s new releases shows just how far that has come).
Their Signature range is the core of what they offer and the Old Vines White is a great example of what South Africa can offer: a blend of Chenin Blanc with Clairette Blanche, Grenache Blanc, Viognier and Semillon Gris, it is sourced from the estate’s oldest vineyards (up to 72 years old) in the ancient decomposed granite soils of the Paardeberg.
The 2025 is exceptional, with a combination of weight, texture and lift that is quite unlike anything else. Neal Martin is a fan, as is Tim Atkin, both of whom score it 94 points. We opened a bottle yesterday and go one further with 95 points; we taste an awful lot of wine here and the extra point might just come from the wine’s inimitable style – we do love our white Burgundy but something genuinely different, and genuinely good, is a real pleasure.
And it comes in at £120 per six in bond: just under £28 per bottle after taxes, for a wine with a sense of place, made by one of the region’s finest and most reputable producers. Drink it tonight or watch it develop over the next decade. We loved it.
We have a few cases already with us with further stock roughly a week away.
The 2025 Old Vines White comes from vines up to 72 years old with some old-vine Sémillon Gris taken from the mother block on the Roundstone estate. Matured for 10 months in 500-litre French oak, this has a delicate, perfumed, subtle bouquet with honeysuckle, broom and hints of peach skin unfolding from the glass. The palate is lovely: slightly oily in texture, quite concentrated, with impressive acidity and almond, orange pith, marzipan and bitter lemon on the absorbing, succulent finish. Excellent. Drink 2027-2042.
A white that no one should be in a hurry to drink, given how well it develops in bottle, this demonstrates Andrea Mullineux’s considerable skills as a blender. Combining 70% Chenin Blanc, 11% Clairette Blanche, 8% Viognier, 6% Grenache Blanc and 5% Semillon Gris, it’s a wine that “defines who we are”, according to Chris Mullineux with lots of zip and acidity, layers of fennel, grapefruit and peach a dusting of wild mountain herbs. 2027-35.
The 2025 is an exceptional iteration of this consistently excellent cuvee. Quite viscous in texture, there is an opulent nose of plush, ripe stone fruits, mingled with some grapefruit zest and a hint of spicy ginger. The palate is thick, fat, generous and velvety but with a lovely citric acidity lending freshness and precision. It has a unique and appealing flavour – quite unlike anything which may be found in Europe and a testament to its unusual cornucopia of varietals. Really rich, exotic and opulent on the finish. An outstanding wine at this price level and highly recommended.
