Yquem 1975

The 1975 may turn out to be the greatest of the modern-day Yquems. When fully mature in another 25-30 years, it may rival the extraordinary 1937 and 1921. This wine continues to evolve at a stubbornly slow pace. It is far more backward than recent vintages such as 1983 and 1986. Nevertheless, it is awesomely concentrated, has perfect balance, and displays the telltale Yquem aromas of vanillin oak, tropical fruit, pineapples, honeyed peaches, and grilled almonds. There is exceptionally crisp acidity that pulls all of the massive extract into precise focus. This is a wine of astonishing power and finesse, with a finish that must be tasted to be believed. It is a monumental effort that may well justify a perfect score in another decade. Anticipated maturity: 2005-2060. Last tasted, 1/91.

Deep gold in color, the 1975 d'Yquem gives up initial notes of cashew butter, manuka honey, dried apricots, musk perfume and fallen leaves over a core of spice cake, applesauce, fungi and lemongrass. The palate is laden with bright, vibrant stone fruit and preserved citrus fruit flavors, laced with honey-nut accents and finishing provocatively earthy. While intense and hedonically satisfying, this beguiling vintage has so many nuances emerging as it unfurls, it stops you in your tracks. Make sure it is the very last wine of the evening, because once you taste this, everything else will pale into insignificance. Although this wine is currently well within its ideal drinking window, there's certainly no rush to drink well-preserved bottles.

The 1975 may turn out to be the greatest of the modern-day Yquems. When fully mature in another 25-30 years, it may rival the extraordinary 1937 and 1921. This wine continues to evolve at a stubbornly slow pace. It is far more backward than recent vintages such as 1983 and 1986. Nevertheless, it is awesomely concentrated, has perfect balance, and displays the telltale Yquem aromas of vanillin oak, tropical fruit, pineapples, honeyed peaches, and grilled almonds. There is exceptionally crisp acidity that pulls all of the massive extract into precise focus. This is a wine of astonishing power and finesse, with a finish that must be tasted to be believed. It is a monumental effort that may well justify a perfect score in another decade. Anticipated maturity: 2005-2060. Last tasted, 1/91.

The 1975 Château d'Yquem stands as one of the towering successes of that decade and at 40 years of age, it shows no signs of losing any of its prowess. This bottle represented one of the best that I have encountered. Iridescent in color, the bouquet soars from the glass, a pyrotechnic display of quince, Clementine, honey and a touch of aszu, lending it a slight Tokaji-like personality. It is beautifully defined and intense. The palate is pure and detailed with a killer line of acidity, vibrant honeyed fruit and a mellifluous finish that is now fully expressive. It vies with the imperious 1971 as the greatest Yquem of that era. This is simply magnificent.