Ornellaia, Tenuta dell'Ornellaia 1997

The 1997 Ornellaia (magnum) is a big, fat wine endowed with tons of fruit. Mocha, coffee beans and ripe, dark fruit emerge from the glass on a rich, opulent frame. The structural elements are easy to overlook, as the tannins are so juicy and ripe, and the fruit is incredibly intense. Simply put, everything is in the right place. Not surprisingly, 1997 is the year Ornellaia introduced their second wine, Le Serre Nuove, and the extra selection that was carried out to produce this wine has paid off big time. The 1997 is also the first Ornellaia in which Merlot is a full 30% of the blend, while Cabernet Sauvignon is 65% and Cabernet Franc is 5%. It is also the first year in which the percentage of new oak is 50%. In many ways, the 1997 is a wine that signals a move towards the more extroverted style that is common here these days. The 1997 Ornellaia, like many wines from Tuscany that year, is marked by a unique growing season that saw an April frost lower yields dramatically, followed by a hot, dry summer which concentrated the remaining fruit to a levels not seen previously. It remains a magnificent example of this Tuscan classic.

The aromas are fascinating here, underlying the uniqueness of the vintage with spearmint, thyme and coastal-rosemary undertones to the currant and tobacco character. Medium body, superb and engaging fruit, soft and silky tannins and lovely acidity that carries thing through wonderfully till the end. Love the finesse. Seamless. Drink now.

The 1997 firmly places Ornellaia back with the best of Italy. Predominantly Cabernet Sauvignon with some Merlot, it is full-bodied and extremely fruity with superpolished tannins. It’s hard not to drink it now, but be patient. It will give more pleasure in years to come. 96 pts.