Calon Ségur 2021

Revisited in bottle, the 2021 Calon-Ségur opens in the glass with aromas of dark berries mingled with aromas of violets, pencil shavings, lilac, Indian spices, cigar wrapper and grilled meats. Medium to full-bodied, dense and suave, with powdery tannins, lively acids and a penetratingly sapid and discreetly carnal finish, it appears to have lost a touch of aromatic precision during élevage, but it remains a compelling Calon-Ségur. Drink 2027-2051.

The 2021 Calon Ségur was cropped at 36hL/ha and aged entirely in new oak for a planned 20 months. This year, the gap between the Grand Vin and the Marquis is blatantly obvious, to the extent that they are practically different wines, which is how Vincent Millet and his team treat them. The Cabernet is firmly in the driving seat here, with detailed, graphite-infused black fruit and a background florality that comes through with aeration. The medium-bodied palate displays very fine tannins, superb acidity (pH 3.65) and impressive harmony. This has exemplary build in the mouth, fine weight on the finish and a persistent aftertaste. An outstanding Calon-Ségur, elevated by the risks taken in de-leafing in June and waiting to pick. Bravo. 12.9% alcohol

Thanks to the proximity to the river there was no frost here (nor at most vineyards in St Estèphe). They didn't start the harvest until 28th September and continued in good weather conditions until October 13th. Most of the Merlot was relegated to the Marquis de Calon. 81% Cabernet Sauvignon, 11% Cabernet Franc. 12.9% abv and 36 hl/ha yield. Only 43% of the crop was used for the grand vin. Deep purple in colour. This has an almost vintage-defying ripeness with cassis and dark cherry fruit layered with hints of cedar, vanilla and toast. The palate follows, with a deep, dark fruited fore fleshing out wonderfully through the mid-palate, tamed by juicy acidity and persistent, fine, plentiful tannins. This has power and freshness in equal measure, with real matière. The oak is just the right side of toasty, and together with the fruit brings a lip-smacking salinity on the finish. This is a very impressive expression of the vintage, and is one of the best wines made in Bordeaux this year.

Polished and perfumed already, with very fine, powdery tannins. So silky. Bright red and black berries here with sandalwood and orange-zest notes. Medium-bodied. Refined. 81% cabernet sauvignon, 11% cabernet franc, 7% merlot and 1% petit verdot.

This is delicious, refined, poised, one of the wines of the vintage. Has the signature of 2021 in terms of cool and savoury fruits, with graphite and gunsmoke aromatics. A cool climate Calon, very different from the style of wines you have found here in the trio of 2018-2019-2020, but it is successful, and a fine example of the savoury, sculpted wines that were possible within the conditions of the year. Understated power, juicy finish, old school elegance. You can begin drink in around 6 or 7 years, but will age. On questioning, there were a few reasons for their success - they deleafed on both sides at the end of June for the first time since director Vincent Millet arrived at Calon in 2006 to aerate the grapes, and together with the dry August were able to get some natural concentration. Harvest September 28 until October 14, 100% new oak. 43% 1st wine, 36hl/h yield. Potential upscore when in bottle.

81% Cabernet Sauvignon, 11% Cabernet Franc, 7% Merlot, 1% Petit Verdot. Cask sample.
Fine, floral bouquet. Density on attack, the oak a touch present but plentiful tannins that are smooth and honed. Plenty of matière and freshness from beginning to end. Clearly has potential. (JL) 12.9%
Drink 2029 – 2048