Richebourg, Domaine Jean Grivot 1999

A beautiful crimson ruby with a rush of quality succulent fruit. Excellent density, the acidity just a fraction more prominent than the tannins, the whole managing to be quite elegant in the fruit department, despite 1999 falling in a slightly awkward, between two stools, period chez Grivot. Fine structure behind. Whereas the bottle two nights earlier had started awkwardly and then grew in the glass, tonight the wine was much more accessible from the start, though contrariwise, it did not develop further later.

The similarly-coloured 1999 Richebourg is compelling. Its aromatics display great ripeness in their roasted dark berry, fresh herb, talcum, and plum scents. It is medium to full-bodied, broad, and full-flavoured. This is an elegant wine with loads of spicy, in-your-face fruit whose flavours last throughout its unbelievably long finish. It magnificently balances extroverted sweet fruit with refinement, precision, and delineation. This is not a dense, chewy wine, but one that is extraordinarily detailed and profound. Projected maturity: 2004-2012.