Barolo Monvigliero, Comm. G.B. Burlotto 2019

This wine feels like a delicate whisper in the ear that tickles and taunts but gets its message across. The Comm. G.B. Burlotto 2019 Barolo Monvigliero definitely spoke to me thanks to its immediate complexity that transcends wild strawberry, aromatic herb, white pepper, orange peel, hazelnut, truffle essence, autumnal leaf, cinnamon and pencil shaving. I could go on. The first vintage made was 1982, and Monvigliero famously sees whole cluster fruit to add to those spicy and herbaceous aromas that are so delicate and fleeting. Fabio Alessandria's other important Barolos, like Castelletto and Acclivi, are made with destemmed grapes, but whole cluster fermentation fits in with the characteristics of the Monvigliero cru. Fabio explains that the use of full bunches is not about gaining structural power per se; it's about obtaining complexity. The 2019 vintage is all about energy and tension, and although the nature of the vintage is a bit closed in its youth, this wine is poised for long aging.

G.B. Burlotto’s luminous, drop-dead gorgeous 2019 Monvigliero stopped me in my tracks, starting with its enticing fragrance of rose, pine forest, perfumed berry and layers of Asian spice. Structured, tense and loaded with finesse, the savory palate shows class and pedigree, delivering juicy cranberry, crushed strawberry, star anise and tangy mineral notes recalling saline. It has a singular and extraordinary purity of flavors, as well as precision and a pristine quality, all exalted by taut but extremely refined tannins. Bright acidity provides balance and great energy. For lovers of extreme elegance, this is the ultimate expression of Verduno’s most celebrated cru. Fabio crushes whole bunches of his best Monvigliero grapes by foot directly in wooden vats followed by two months of submerged cap maceration. The wine then ages for three years in Slavonian and Allier oak casks. Sublime. Drink 2026–2049