Earth Smoke Pinot Noir, Pyramid Valley Vineyards 2023

The 2023 Pinot Noir Earth Smoke is tender and transparent, mellow and mouth-filling. Restrained in expression within the context of the New World, it is a little reductive, herbal (with the agave-like flavor of good tequila) and fruity with strawberry and red cherry flavors. The palate is mouthwateringly fresh, with chalky tannins leaving a fine powdery veil. This is pure, satisfying and the essence of its terroir. It does feel rather fragile, and as such, my drinking window is currently set for the next ten years. Drink 2025-2035.

Light ruby. This is a quietly pretty and understated pinot noir which slowly opens on the palate with air. Sneakily concentrated and compact flavours of raspberry, strawberry, Irish Moss and star anise melt into a coulis of surprising sweetness, obscuring the delicate, chalky tannins which only reveal themselves on the finish. Cedar, sandalwood and almond cream accompany sweet, earthy notes of Jerusalem artichoke and sesame seeds on the expanding, flowing finish. Lighter in style but very long, this is approachable immediately but will deliver more layered complexity over the coming decade.

A silky, transparent and minerally pinot noir with an enticing nose of sour cherries, forest berries, wet stones and baking spices. Medium-bodied with bright acidity. Vivid and agile, with gentle fruit character and a stony, minerally influence. Long, peppery finish. From biodynamically grown grapes. Drink or hold.