Wiltinger Braune Kupp Spatlese, Le Gallais, Egon Müller 2023

There is one foudre, so roughly 1,000 liters, of the 2023 Wiltinger Braune Kupp Spätlese (Auction) that comes under AP #11, whereas the generic Spätlese is AP #5. The wine opens with very delicate and elegant Riesling fruit intertwined with floral and lemon balm notes. Frisky, juicy and saline on the palate, this is a refined, filigreed and almost fragile Spätlese with great sensuality. It's of impeccable class, and if readers cannot afford the Scharzhofberger Spätlese, this is more than just a superb alternative. Egon Müller cultivates four hectares here, of which two have been leased since 1953 or 1954 from the family that owns the former Weingut Le Gallais in Kanzem. The Braune Kupp is in fact a monopole, and the wines are vinified in the cellar of the Scharzhof. However, for the past 70 years, these Rieslings have come with their own label and the ancient La Gallais emblem. The 2023 Braune Kupp Spätlese will be auctioned one day, yet (most likely) not this year. Drink: 2030-2070

Whoever doesn’t like these incredibly fine and deep aromas of stone fruit might well be in need of therapy. Very juicy and concentrated, but every bit as vibrant and refined, this is a great riesling Spatlese that proves this style doesn’t need to be in the least old-fashioned. In spite of the frank sweetness on the mid-palate, the finish is dangerously refreshing. Has decades of life ahead of it. Drink or hold.