The 2021 Cyril Henschke Cabernet Sauvignon hails from a block planted in the 1960s and the 1980s. The vineyard is planted east-west, with vertical shoot positioned trellising, and the straw mulch underneath the vines assists in bringing out the most expression possible. Fermentation involves very gentle cap management to withdraw gentle tannins from the wine. It matured for 18 months in French oak. The nose leads with violets and crushed rocks, dried herbs and ancient, dusty earth. With 1% Merlot, this is essentially a Cabernet Sauvignon wine. The wine takes me to the ancient gums and rocky outcrops of the Eden valley, a place I am incredibly fond of. This is the loveliest Cyril Henschke Cabernet Sauvignon I can recall—sleek and evocative.
First made in 1978, from the Henschke Eden Valley vineyard planted in 1966. The vineyard is on a north-facing gentle slope and the rows run east-west, with vertically trellised canopies. There are 25 rows of Cabernet Sauvignon and 5 rows of Cabernet Franc and 8 rows of Merlot. Each of these components are made separately and then after nearly two years in barrel the final blend is put together. It depends on the season whether the other varieties improve the quality of the wine. Classically Australian in style (in a good way) with sweet blackcurrant fruit on the nose as well as a hint of mint and dried herbs. Perfumed and inviting. In the mouth this has a sweet core of blackcurrant fruit with some fresh red cherry notes and also a hint of tar and herbs, showing a lovely flow across the palate. Ripe and rich, but also fresh and quite elegant, with the potential for development. Single-variety Cabernet isn’t a speciality of the Barossa, but from this site in the Eden Valley, it works really well.
Very bright, glowing pillar-box red fading to quite a pale rim. Sweet and rich with classic cassis notes on the nose and then with a dry finish in the manner of bordeaux varieties! The voluptuousness of the Shirazes is a rather hard act to follow. This really needs time, though is much sweeter, more winning and more approachable than most 2021 red bordeaux! It's still reticent, even when retasted 24 hours after opening.
I love Cyril, and this stunning 2021 takes up its position in Australia’s great pantheon of Cabernets because of its sheer quality, detail, and glittering uniqueness. No other wine tastes like it, making it an essential part of any Cabernet lover’s repertoire. North facing and late-ripening, the 2021 vintage romanced this vineyard, encouraging it to give its best possible fruit, and this has resulted in an even more fragrant wine than usual with heady violets, cassis, plums and even more exotic floral breeds than I have encountered, before in this noble wine. Gorgeous, silky tannins, give it the air of a relaxed and welcoming wine. But don’t be seduced by the apparent genial and approachable air. Of course, this is an elegant and controlled wine akin to a St-Julien-flavoured Pomerol (if there is such a thing). Yet, this flavour and texture could only come from the Eden Valley’s unique climate and Prue’s tremendously delicate viticulture. This is a landmark vintage for Cyril, and I cannot wait to see how it evolves because I have a half-point in reserve, just in case I need it.
