CDP Cuvée Réservée, Domaine de la Vieille Julienne 2003

Sadly, the 2003 Chateauneuf du Pape Reservee (150 cases of a wine that reached 16.5% natural alcohol) is one of the most profound Chateauneuf du Papes ever produced, but latching onto a few bottles is virtually impossible. A blend of 95% Grenache and 5% Syrah, it is an astonishingly rich wine, offering up notes of black raspberry liqueur intermixed with kirsch, crushed rocks, and white flowers. The wine has superb richness, amazing intensity, yet comes across as relatively light on its feet for a wine of such massive richness and intensity. Made from yields of 12 hectoliters per hectare, the wine is a modern-day legend that should age for three decade or more. I could actually drink it now, although I know that’s infanticide, but I suspect this wine will hit its peak around 2010 and then age effortlessly. Bravo!

P.S. I asked Daumen to indicate the yields of his vintages since 1998. Interestingly, he exceeded 30 hectoliters per hectare in 1998 and 1999, fell below that in 2000, and then his two smallest crops were 28 hectoliters per hectare in 2003 and 25 hectoliters per hectare in 2004. Obviously, this is for the entire estate and not just his Chateauneuf du Pape holdings, which are much smaller.