Haut Brion Blanc 2009

This blockbuster blend of 62% Sauvignon Blanc and 38% Semillon has absolutely amazing texture, with superb lemon butter, crushed rock, quince and marmalade notes buttressed by hints of orange zest and citrus oil. Rich and full-bodied, with a sensational fragrance, this is an exquisite, full-throttle white to drink over the next 30+ years. Utterly profound!

You could argue that the 2009 Haut-Brion Blanc is not a subtle wine. It has an explosive bouquet loaded with more glycerine than the example that I encountered back in 2013. This feels richer and more decadent, laden with apricot, crème brûlée and yellow plums. What it might lack in definition it makes up for in sheer gung-ho. The palate follows suit. It is powerful and deep, a Haut-Brion Blanc firing on all cylinders with a sense of lusciousness and decadence – yet there is balance here. There is nothing excessive and there remains that tang of lemongrass on the finish. Those who like hedonism could broach this now. Alternatively give it 10 years in bottle because it will evolve into a fascinating wine. Tasted at a white Bordeaux-themed private dinner in London. 2018 - 2038

Shows exotic tropical fruit such as lychee and mango, with citrus undertones and cream. Full-bodied, offering loads of intense fruit on the palate. Bright acidity and a minerally, flinty undertone. Impressive finish. Not the 2007, but very good indeed.

62% Sauvignon Blanc, 38% Sémillon - an unusually high proportion of Sauvignon and I can understand why, so fat is the wine. Yet it smells fatter and less Sauvignon than La Mission Blanc - as so often. Very round and rich - you have to seek the acidity. Very forward and plump. Good citrus tingle. Long but a little hot on the end. The strongest ever Haut Brion Blanc. Date tasted 2nd April 2010. Drink 2015-2019.

The undisputed king of Bordeaux's dry white wines. Truly great but produced in miniscule quantities. Only available in tiny quantities to regular buyers. The 2.8 hectare vineyard has produced just 500 cases this year from 38% Semillon and 62% Sauvignon Blanc. A piercing nose with lemon and citrus notes. Smooth, oily and creamy but with wonderful citric zest.

There is a mass of fruit on the nose, upfront tropical fruits fleshed out by pineapple then refreshed and balanced by gooseberry and lime. The mid palate is racy, a touch of flint, apple freshness and gooseberry crispness. Towards the back the richness of pineapple and melon give some weight but the finish is bright and stylish. Drink 2014-2030.

A wine with much more Sauvignon Blanc than usual (45% is closer to the norm), this needs every bit of freshness it can get to lift the herbal weight of the Semillon. The result is a triumph: waxy, 'leesy' and toasty, with subtle oak integration, fresh acidity and a finish that lingers on the palate. On the ripe side perhaps, but still delicious. 5+ years.

Fullish lemon yellow, floral, almost succulently ripe fruits, appley but broad, still a little unformed, the vibrancy of Sauvignon Blanc (62%) will dominate as it matures. Drink 2013-18.