Bonnes Mares, Domaine Georges & Christophe Roumier 2007

One of the wines of the vintage, the 2007 Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru has shut down considerably in the last few years, and it's clear that this is one of the few 2007 red Burgundies truly built from the long haul. The wine unfurls in the glass with a youthfully reserved bouquet of red and black cherries, peony, orange zest and woodsmoke that's far less extroverted and explosive than it was only four years ago. On the palate, it's full-bodied, deep and concentrated, with a tight-knit core, fine-grained structuring tannins and a long, stony finish. At this stage, the 2006 rendition is much more approachable, and I'd advise readers who own the 2007 to forget it for the better part of a decade.

A restrained, even taciturn nose that is intensely earthy yet very fresh with dark berries, cassis, plum and floral hints introduces rich, full and intensely minerally big-bodied flavors blessed with huge amounts of dry extract that coat the palate and buffers the solid but refined tannins, all wrapped in a beautifully balanced, pure and strikingly persistent finish. This is an impressive effort as it's tautly muscular with everything in perfect proportion. As with the Amoureuses, note that patience will be required.

Gorgeous aromas and flavors of red currant, raspberry, black cherry, licorice and mineral highlight this complex,powerful and stylish red, which keeps pulsing on the palate. Best from 2013 through 2025

A restrained, even taciturn nose that is intensely earthy yet very fresh with dark berries, cassis, plum and floral hints that introduce rich, full and intensely minerally big-bodied flavors blessed with huge amounts of dry extract that coat the palate and buffers the solid but refined tannins, all wrapped in a beautifully balanced, pure and strikingly persistent finish. This is an impressive effort as it's tautly muscular with everything in perfect proportion.