CDP Le Vieux Donjon, Le Vieux Donjon (Lucien Michel) 2009

The 2009 Chateauneuf du Pape is dominated by Grenache with major amounts of Mourvedre, Syrah and other authorized varietals. Its dense ruby/plum color is followed by aromas of smoked meats, roasted Provencal herbs, a gamy character and lots of kirsch, black currant and blue fruits. Rich and full-bodied, it is softer than most young vintages of Vieux Donjon tend to be, and should drink well for 12-15 years.

This particular 2009 red has none of the drying tannins that characterise so many of its peers from this landmark southern Rhône appellation and has been made with the sort of gentle hand you would expect of Claire Michel (who once worked at super-smooth Harlan Estate of Napa Valley as well as in the marketing department of Boisset of Burgundy). I noted this wine's richness, flattering life and easy accessibility already, although I think it will still be fun to drink until about 2022.

When I tasted this wine the final assemblage had not yet been done by Claire Michel, who has now taken over the reins of this estate from her parents. It should be a blend of 80% or more of Grenache and the rest Syrah and Mourvedre. The potential blend I tasted appears to have lots of structure, a muscular style, a deep plum/ruby/purple-tinged color, intense icorice, garrigue, lavender, black currant and black cherry characteristics, medium to ful body and elevated tannins in the finish. The cuvee, which has a slightly longer elevage than many of its peers, will benefit from the extra time given its serious structure at present.