Martinborough Pinot Noir, Ata Rangi 2014

Quite a deep ruby colour for Pinot Noir, the nose is rich with both black and red cherries, bramble fruit and a hint of sweet spice. The palate is intense and ripe, with black cherry and blueberry fruit layered with vanilla and nutmeg. The texture is broad and round, supported by ripe and smooth tannins that frame the juicy fruit core. The finish is long, spicy and juicy.

As ever this has an extra dimension and remains the high watermark for New Zealand pinot noir to be measured against. How do they do it: complete and uncompromised dedication to the cause, combined with an early play to make the most of the available land in a young region, as well as the ability to attract talented and dedicated people such as winemaker Helen Masters to the cause. Already entrancingly complex, the wine has a brambly array of cherry and summer berry fruits in addition to blueberries, some spicy saffron and earthy nuances. It's totally composed and still able to deliver a sense of aromatic purity amid web-like complexity. As you swoon into the first mouthful, it takes total control and is plush and layered with an air of playful luxury. The center billows soft and deceptively airy, finishing in a run of succulent, fresh and satisfying tannins that leave you breathless. Drink now to 2025+.