Hermitage Rouge, J-L Chave 1990

1990 is the Hermitage appellation's greatest vintage since 1978, and maybe since 1961. I have been tasting Chave's Hermitage since the great 1978 vintage, and the black-colored 1990 is unquestionably the most massive and concentrated wine he has yet produced. Perhaps the real difference between it and the splendid 1989 is that the 1990 exhibits a more roasted character to its nose, as well as a bit more tannin and concentration in the mouth. Except for that, they are both mind-boggling, monumental bottles of red Hermitage. The 1990, which offers huge aromas of tar, roasted cassis fruit, and hickory, as well as astonishing concentration, will not be interesting to drink young. Anticipated maturity: 2005-2040.

Also mature, yet with another level of texture and richness, the 1990 Hermitage is a profound effort that's drinking perfectly. Voluptuous, yet classy and still refined, with awesome cassis and blackberry fruit, flowers, rose petal and hints of rendered bacon fat, it is full-bodied, textured and layered on the palate, with no hard edges and killer length on the finish. This beauty makes lights go off in my head, and as with the '91, I'd drink bottles over the coming 4-5 years or so.