Rioja Reserva, Vina Tondonia, R. López de Heredia Viña Tondonia 2010

The 2010 Viña Tondonia Reserva has all I expect from a Reserva from Tondonia, complexity, elegance and evolution, a developed nose with notes of forest floor and wild berries, herbs and flowers, a touch of iodine, brick dust and very fine, polished tannins. It has the seriousness and elegance of Tondonia. This is a blend of 70% Tempranillo, 20% Garnacho (they use the masculine form of the name of the grape) and 5% each Graciano and Mazuelo that fermented in the ancient oak vats from when the winery was created 144 years ago and matured in well-seasoned, American oak barrels for six years. It has 13% alcohol, a pH of 3.4 and 6.6 grams of acidity. 260,000 bottles produced. It was bottled in May 2017. Drink 2022-2034.

This is as complex and savory as the rest of the Viña Tondonia wines, but also shows a tad more depth, with a hint of black plum and blue fruit on top of the orange rind, iron, tobacco and earthy spices. Expect some cedar and truffle to develop in the future. Juicy, zesty and tight, with a dusty tannins and bright berry fruit on the medium-to full-bodied palate. Drink or hold.

A blend of Tempranillo, Garnacha, Graciano and Mazuelo, the latest iteration of Tondonia's brilliant Reserva is a deep garnet colour in the glass. The extended barrel and bottle ageing lends leather, tobacco and savoury spice tones to the nose, but there is brilliant energy and pure red fruit here too. The palate is chalky with ripe tannins but bursting with cherry fruit. Dark and seductive, the rich, smoky tones are layered with jucy fruit. Leather and tobacco build on the mid palate, but this is a Tondonia that has a real harmony and intensity of fruit. The complementary sweet and savoury characters in this wine are intense and linger long on the finish - this is a Reserva that will age wonderfully in bottle, though it is already approachable. Excellent, benchmark old-school Rioja with just the right hit of succulent fruit.