Côte Rôtie Côte Blonde, Domaine René Rostaing 2005

The 2005 Cote Rotie Cote Blonde is pure sex, with about 3% Viognier in the blend. The wine has a dark ruby color to the rim and an extraordinary nose of exotic tropical fruits intermixed with kirsch, blackberry, licorice, and pepper. The wine is incredibly seductive aromatically, but then in the mouth, the full-bodied power and tannins of the vintage come through. It reminds me stylistically of a 1983, but better balanced. This is a beauty that will probably need several years of bottle age, and should drink well for another 15 or more years.

This is more closed on the nose than Landonne with faint scents of smoke and blackberry leaf. But the palate has similarities: overtly masculine in style, unwilling to compromise for the taster at this nascent stage (a wine that accuses you of infanticide when sipped.) Provençal herbs, black olives, minerals and a more pronounced garrigues character, it has breathtaking balance and poise, fabulous delineation. Brilliant. Tasted December 2006. Drinking 2015-2035.

Ruby-red. Deep cherry and creme de cassis aromas are complicated by cured tobacco, olive, licorice, espresso and minerals, along with a suave floral overtone. Deep, sweet and palate-saturating, offering intense dark berry and cherry flavors and a lovely energizing minerality that builds with air. Delivers serious flavor impact but has a compellingly graceful character, finishing with persistent sweetness and outstanding clarity. Rostaing thinks that this could easily go for 20 years, but "as usual, I'd prefer it younger than that-maybe 10 for me."

Relatively pale colour - blonde indeed. But haunting nose - almost burgundian in its fleshy sensuality. Lovely sweet palate entry and great appetising balance though still with a lot of oak influence on the finish. This is delicate fruit that should be left alone for quite a while. Should make a great bottle. Drink 2010-20