Scharzhofberger Spatlese 4, Weingut Egon Müller 2011

Deeply luscious peach near its core is tinged with the piquancy of its pit; pungent lime rind and fresh ginger; as well as maritime salinity and alkalinity, on the wafting and delicate nose and palate of Muller's 2011 Scharzhofberger Riesling Spatlese A.P. #4. The integration of nippy botrytis - like the measure of residual sugar here - is perfectly judged; and the combination of textural creaminess with delicacy; infectious juiciness; vivacity; and invigorating impingement of zest, spice and mineral elements is downright uncanny. The merest hint of white raisin in this beauty's long, brightly tingling finish - like its faintly prickly spiciness - points to the ennobling if subtle presence of botrytis. The degree of focus, incisiveness and interactivity on exhibit here is rare for the vintage. Look for profound pleasure through at least 2035.