Chardonnay Estate, Kumeu River 2009

The 2009 Estate Chardonnay gives intense notes of ripe apricots, guava, green mango and honey coated nuts with nuances of lightly browned toast and white blossoms. Medium bodied with a silken texture, it gives great concentration, crisp acidity and a long toasty finish. Drinking now, it should cellar to 2016+.

A gorgeous wine with apple pie, cream, and mineral undertones. Some melon. Full and balanced with attractive oak character such as cream. Made from grapes from six different vineyards. Drink now.

Depth on the nose pear is backed by apricot and nectarine the palate starts with sweet fruit but the underpinning lime and apple refresh the back palate has a herbal nutty twist the finish is firm fragrant and long. 2018-24

Rich and deep, this features toasted hazelnut, fig and citrus flavors that have a smooth texture and vibrant acidity. The aromatics are the star here, with honeysuckle, lemon zest and green apple notes that leap out of the glass and push through on the finish. Drink now through 2016. 5,000 cases made.

Chardonnay is another strength among the country's whites, though the category tends to be dominated by perennial superstar Kumeu River. This year there are four outstanding Chardonnays from this North Island estate on the outskirts of Auckland, including this report's highest-scoring white, the Kumeu Coddington 2009 (94).

20% new oak. Fine and taut with pear and ripe apple, spice and subtle toast. Fine with nice acidity. Focused and elegant, showing good acidity and some restraint.

Creamy, almost fat on the nose. Lots of extract and perhaps a slight lack of nerve. Some alcohol evident. A bit Bordeaux 09-like!
Drink 2012-2021

All barrel fermented, 20% new. More traditional winemaking, ie up to 24 ºC in barrel (20 ºC in tank - yeast much happier). H2S is blown off with the warmer temperature which also gives more varietal flavour. More esters created if the yeasts struggle.
Delicate toasty note. And some spice and orange zest. Tight and long and so fresh. Elegant with some grip that adds length. Have to get tannin right at the juice stage, says winemaker Michael Brajkovich. Gentle toast on the finish. Very long. (JH) 13%.
Drink 2012-2015

One of my favourite wines and producers. Often mistaken for top Burgundies, the grapes for this bottle were allowed to slowly ripen on the vine in the gentle New Zealand summer and there's a depth and richness that shows because of that. When I lived in Auckland, I really wish I had introduced myself to the Brajkovich family!

Still bright and lively for almost a decade of age, this rather light New Zealand chardonnay has nice appley freshness and a crisp finish that make it ideal for oysters. Drink now. Screw cap.