Ornellaia, Tenuta dell'Ornellaia 2019

The 2019 Ornellaia is one of the most elegant wines I have ever tasted here. All the elements are so well-balanced. Dark and racy, with fabulous class and pedigree to burn, the 2019 is superb from the very first taste. Dark plum, mocha, new leather, licorice and spice build over time, but it is the wine’s stunning finesse that impresses most. The 2019 has the highest percentage of Cabernet Sauvignon since the 2002. That very much comes through in the wine’s vibrancy and aromatic presence.

This is a beautiful expression of coastal Tuscany and the sunny Mediterranean. The Ornellaia 2019 Bolgheri Superiore Ornellaia (a blend of 62% Cabernet Sauvignon, 31% Merlot, 4% Cabernet Franc and 3% Petit Verdot) pours from the bottle with a specific darkness that has elements of both inky saturation and ruby highlights. The wine is saturated and rich—this is something you notice off the bat—but it also reveals a pleasing lightness or grace that is transmitted to both the bouquet and the palate. Dark fruit, pressed blackberry and plum mingle with more substantial aromas of spice, leather and sweetly cured tobacco. The tannins are beautifully managed, and the wine sports considerable heft and density on the palate that drives a very long and pleasurable mouthfeel. 2025 - 2048

Charred caramel and liquorice aromatics, with sappy acidity accompanying generous olive tapenade, blackberry and raspberry fruits on the opening beats. Deceptively silky tannins, they are tactile and supple at first then close in through the mid palate, revealing a more serious Ornellaia with layers of graphite, savoury cassis, sage, bay leaf, underbrush and white truffle spices. A touch of sweet salted caramel returns after half an hour in the glass, this is well structured and will be giving its best after five or six years in bottle, and for several decades. A hot dry summer followed by cooler weather during harvest has given finesse and complexity, and a wine to savour. All varieties are aged separately for 12 months then blended and then put back in barrel for 6 months, followed by 12 months in bottle. 70% new oak. Director Axel Heinz, oenologist Olga Fusari.