CDP Le Vieux Donjon, Le Vieux Donjon (Lucien Michel) 2007

Still backward and unevolved, the 2007 Chateauneuf du Pape (75% Grenache, 10% Syrah, 10% Mourvedre, and 5% other authorized varietals) was aged completely in foudre. Its deep ruby/purple color is followed by a reticent, but burgeoning bouquet of black cherries, plums, black currants, garrigue, lavender, and licorice. One can sense the weight, power, and richness in the mouth, but the tannins are there, and the wine also has very good acids. Consequently, patience will be required, and this is one 2007 where 2-3 years of bottle age is warranted. The wine is capable of lasting 15-20+ years. This pure, deep, full-bodied 2007 is the finest Chateauneuf du Pape Vieux Donjon has made since their sensational 1998 and 1990.

The 1998 Chateauneuf du Pape from the Michel family was firing on all cylinders for this retrospective, and while I’ve had bottles stateside that seem tired, this was beautiful on all accounts. Garrigue, truffle, leather and plenty of ripe fruit flow to a full-bodied, mouth filling and unctuously textured feel on the palate. A classic, foudre-aged blend of 75% Grenache, 10% Syrah, 10% Mourvedre and the rest other permitted varieties, I would drink bottles ASAP while they’re showing this beautifully, but it will certainly hold nicely for another 7-8 years.

The three component parts of the 2007 Chateauneuf du Pape, Syrah from the estate's holdings in Pialons, old vine Grenache from sandy terroirs, and Mourvedre, are all brilliant, hence the estimated rating of (94-96). The wine reveals a dense purple color along with a gorgeous bouquet of camphor, licorice, graphite, sweet red and black fruits, smoked meats, and a hint of charcoal. Full-bodied and pure with plenty of Provencal garrigue and meaty characters, this superb, chewy red should turn out to be their finest effort since the 1998 and 1990. It is a classic, traditionally made Chateauneuf du Pape to drink between 2013-2026.