A wine that has been under the radar from the very start, Château Sociando Mallet lies a couple of kilometres north of Calon Ségur, on some of Bordeaux’s finest gravel terroir overlooking the Gironde estuary. This gravel is a continuation of the “Terrace 4” that runs through the heart of Montrose, Ducru, Lascases and all four Médoc first growths.
Owned and run by Jean Gautreau, and now his daughter, since 1969 the viticulture here has always been uber-traditional, harvesting done by hand and fermentation in steel and concrete: the wine only goes into barrel for ageing. The result is deeply traditional, artisanal claret, without the polish of some of its more “modern” peers.
The property wasn’t classified in 1855, quite possibly on account of the extra distance required to get there from the city, though the general consensus of opinion is that the wines easily warrant classed-growth status; “Sociando-Mallet has a strong case that it is a classed growth in all but name”, writes Neal Martin in his 2019 article for Vinous on the property.
We have just shipped a parcel of the 2016 vintage, which we are offering at the discounted price of £300 per dozen in bond. Critical review is unanimously solid and the sample we opened in the office more than exceeded our expectations: this is seriously good, proper claret with an individuality that is so much more than scores out of 100. We gave it half an hour in a decanter and pretty much all agreed that this is a wine that takes you back to the 1990s. There is no fancy polish or gloss, no excessive barrel influence, just impeccably proper claret of considerable character, one which clearly comes from seriously good vineyards.
Our stock is packed in wooden cases of twelve, is lying with us and ready to go. Drink now, even better with a decant, or keep for a decade. At just under £34 a bottle after taxes – a rather good deal for a ten year old wine from a great vintage - fans of proper claret will find this very hard to beat.
2016 Sociando Mallet has turned into what must be the best wine from this property of the modern era. Still a deep ruby-purple colour in the glass, the nose has a depth and ripeness of fruit I would not expect, unfurling with notes of cassis, dark plum and dark cherry, together with flecks of vanilla bean and more savoury cedar and pencil shavings. The palate is pure, long and focused, with dark fruit driving everything forward. Though the tannins are chalky and properly formed, they give this wine depth and poise rather than dominating the fruit. The balance is impeccable, and though the fruit is ripe it has 2016's cool edge: you could only be in the northern Médoc. Wood spice and savoury development are background accents, but add to the moreish nature of this wine, lingering on the finish with a fresh bite of acidity and persistent cherry fruit. You can absolutely drink this now, it is a delicious wine that has you reaching for another glass. Impressive.
The 2016 Sociando Mallet has an attractive bouquet of cranberry, wild strawberry, cedar and light loamy aromas. The palate is medium-bodied with grainy tannins, though it is well balanced with a fresh, quite mineral-driven finish that has grace and charm. This is a splendid Sociando-Mallet that I suspect will meliorate with cellaring. Tasted blind at the Southwold tasting. 2022 - 2040
Dark-berry and currant aromas with hints of spice. Medium body, firm and chewy tannins and a fresh and clean finish. Shows focus and seriousness for the appellation, as is usual from this producer. Better after 2022.
Inky black in colour, with a beautiful graphite and black fruit nose. This is undoubtedly a great Sociando this year, with precise yet juicy graphite and black fruits on the palate, from a fairly even blend of Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon with a touch of Cabernet Franc too. Drink 2023 - 2040.
The 2016 Chateau Sociando-Mallet is a beautiful, complete wine that shows the classic style of this vintage beautifully. Deep ruby/purple-colored, with terrific notes of blackcurrants, black cherries, dried earth, and lead pencil shavings, it hits the palate with medium to full-bodied richness, a layered, seamless texture, and a great finish. It has plenty of tannins, yet they're polished and nicely integrated into the wine. This brilliant Haut-Medoc is approachable today yet will be even better with 2-4 years of bottle age and keep for 15+ years. (Drink between 2021-2036)
