Like Jamet in Côte Rôtie and Allemand in Cornas, Pierre Gonon has cemented itself at the top in Saint Joseph for those seeking soulful, terroir-driven, ethereal Syrah with explosive aromatics and incredible drinkability from youth to full maturity.
From the heart of Saint Joseph proper in Mauves, brothers Pierre and Jean took over from their father Pierre in the late eighties after he was forced into early retirement, building a new cellar for production in 2002. The core production came from terraced hillside in surrounding Mauves and Tournon, before 3 hectares of old vines were purchased from the legendary Trollat vineyard in the mid 2000s. Now comprising around 10 hectares, the vines are farmed meticulously by hand and horse - no mean feat in this steep part of the appellation.
Yields are low - around 30hl/ha on average - and a small proportion of stems are retained to bolster aromatics and add fresh grip. The maturation is in 600 litre demi-muids that are only a small part new to refresh the oldest barrels.
The result in the glass is magical. These wines have rightly gained a cult following in recent years, and they drink deliciously from a very young age. Rarely do you see them reappear on the market because the people who buy them take delivery and drink them - many of the Farr staff included.
Today we are lucky to have a small parcel of both the 2022 and 2023 vintages, two excellent years for the estate. The 2022 is bolder, deeper and fuller with blackberry and forest fruits but still that lavender and pepper fragrance. It has 96 points in the Wine Advocate - "The 2022 Saint-Joseph from Pierre Gonon is a beauty." The 2023 is vibrant, moreish and succulent, with sappy fruit and pressed flowers lifted by tangy acids. It has 97 in the Wine Advocate - "Highly expressive of its origin, this is a superb Saint-Joseph and one of my favorites." They are two sides of the same coin, both with a strong Gonon signature, and you can drink them both tonight.
